COBHC member

As I did the boost leak test with my own tester, I heard hissing from many sources. If you plan to do this test, google “boost leak tester” for more info on this.

I had these places hissing as i forced air into the intake. Action taken in parentheses:

• Blow-off leaked – really cheap crap that needs to be replaced (new blow-off from Greddy)
• Blow-off / intake pipe seal was leaking (needed tightening)
• Throttle body shaft seals leaked (replaced)
• Injector O-rings (replaced injectors along with the O-rings)
• BISS screw O-ring (new OEM parts)

From this site you can order the seals: http://www.machv.com/throtbodseal.html

helpful link with step-by-step instructions Link

TB shaft seals

Fuel rail, ISC, injectors, throttle body, TPS

Throttle body shaft seal location

Crappy replica of Greddy Blow-Off starts to leak at 7PSI

FIC 650cc/min

Original fuel injectors and fuel pump must be replaced for more fuel. Original injectors are rated to 450cc/min. The ones i got on ebay were 650cc/min Florida Injector Clinic.

I also had to replace the fuel pump with Walbro 255LPH .  I got the “rewire kit” for more voltage. And one more imortant thing – Apexi SAFC II fuel computer. Since I replaced the injectors with bigger ones, ECU still thinks it is injecting as before but in reality it is injecting much more. Fuel computer fools ECU so that it thinks it gets less intake air so it injects in smaller amounts. To fine tune this computer I got Innovate LC-1 wideband controller that tells you exact fuel air ratio in real time. Chemically ideal combustion will take place when 14.7 parts of air is mixed with one part of fuel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

Walbro 255LPH fuel pump

Interior. Two Apexis.

Eclipse 96 GST ECU MD321912

The ECU i retrieved from behind of the center console was to my surprise not originally from this car. As I googled the OEM part code i got that its from ’96 eclipse. Too bad. If it was from ’95 it would be probably an ECU with EEPROM. And that would mean that its possible to use ECMTuning . Non-EEPROM ECUs have “T” marking and EEPROM ECUs “E”.

This is a model of my mitsu !